Archive for the ‘Sewing/Craft’ Category
I’ve had an interest in shibori – traditional Japanese fabric dying – for a while, since I did a workshop at a textile art exhibition a couple of years ago. One of my plans for Burning Man costumes was to dye some voile and make a bunch of light tops for daytime wear.
Yesterday I prepared my pieces of fabric. I cut four pieces of voile in different sizes, and folded and scrunched them in various ways…
The dye I used is fancy stuff called Liquid Radiance – unlike most other dyes you can use it on any sort of fabric, and you can use it as paint too. In some ways it doesn’t work quite like other dyes, so I wasn’t sure how my experiments were going to come out. I was also trying not to use too much of it, so I used the dropper bottles instead of the usual method of dipping the fabric in a container of dye. That let me do some multiple-colour stuff that I couldn’t have done the other way. The voile resisted the dye a bit – I ended up dampening the fabric with a spray bottle to encourage the dye to spread.
Here’s what I got – first the ‘In Progress’ shots, and then the results:
And now, the pièce de résistance… I acquired a pair of white thermal pants – free, but boring 😛 So I made them stripy:
(Following on from Part 1 – making a pattern)
Step 3 – Starting the Mock-up
- Firstly, the reason for making a mock-up instead of jumping straight to the Real Thing is to make sure it will fit properly – far better to be making adjustments to a practice version than to your (often fancy and expensive) final fabric.
- I made a photocopy before I cut out my paper pattern pieces, just in case something happened to them. Then I cut them out, and labelled them – which piece, which way up, and my name (because there are three of us making corsets at the moment)
- The next step, which I forgot to photograph, was to cut out two of each pattern piece from some cheap but relatively sturdy material. I used some plain cotton calico, but twill would have been a bit sturdier. Very important– don’t forget to add seam allowance! Mark the pieces so that you know which are for the right hand side and which are for the left hand side – or some other system to help you figure out which seams go with which other seams – there’re lots, and it’s confusing.
- Once you have your pieces it’s time to sew them together – all the left hand pieces, and all the right hand pieces, so you end up with two half-corsets. I hand stitched mine, but the others machine-stitched theirs – whichever you prefer. I thought it would be easier to get the differently curved seams accurately matched by hand… Despite my careful measuring and careful sewing, none of the seams match exactly, but they’re pretty close.
- This is where I suddenly noticed that the two pieces are not the same shape. Minor confusion ensued, as I tried to figure out where I’d sewn something wrong (all the seams match ok!). It seems that friday night with friends and Hot Fuzz is not conducive to error-free sewing.
- Now there are two correct half-corsets. I know they’re correct because I checked three or four times.
Step 4 – Inserting the Busk
- The busk is the hooks-and-eyes on a strip of boning doo-hickey that is used for the front closure. Having a front closure means you don’t have to unlace and relace the back completely to get in and out of the corset. To get a better idea of the shape it will give to the final corset, I decided to insert the busk in the mockup, instead of just sewing the front seam. This was a slightly tricky procedure, and I’m glad I did it now – some practice before I do the important one.
- In the final corset the busk will go between the outer fabric and the lining. I cut some strips of fabric and sewed them to the two centre-front seams to simulate the lining. I pressed the seam open and then pressed it again folded back into position. I’m a big fan of pressing – it makes the seams look better, and for something like this it also opens the seam right up and keeps it flat, right where it should be. Pressing makes garments look like they were sew by someone with skillz.
- Then I lined up one of the busk pieces and traced around it with a fabric pen. I laid the two front seams together, lined up, with the (hooked together) busk on top, and traced the second busk piece. I also marked where the hooks and the eyes would go.
- On the eyes side, I unpicked bits of the side seam where the eyes would slip through between the two pieces of fabric (Aside: quick-unpickers are like socks for disappearing – I have 4 in my house and couldn’t find any. Until I was finished carefully unpicking with scissors, when I found one in the sewing table). I also did some top-stitching to reinforce the seam – otherwise the loose ends where I unpicked would pull the seam apart under pressure. I’ll do something a bit more careful and elegant for the final corset – this time round it’s just a proof of concept and a practice run.
- On the hook side, I had to make holes in the fabric to poke the buttons through. This is supposed to be done with an awl, pushing between the threads of the fabric, so that there are no broken threads to reduce the structural integrity of the fabric. I don’t have an awl, so I used crochet hooks – starting with the 3mm, then a 5mm, until the hole was big enough to get the button through.
- Here it is with the busk “done up”:
- The last step was to try it on and see how it fit. Despite the gaffer tape in Step 1 being pulled tight enough to really squish me, it is big enough to meet at the back – there should be a gap for the lacing. I’ll be taking off a few centimetres at each side seam to fix that. Other than that it seems to fit pretty well – hooray!
Step 1 – Fun with gaffer tape
- Put on an old t-shirt (no bra) and get a friend to wrap you up in gaffer tape. Err on the side of tightness, because once it’s made, the gap at the lacing will make the real thing looser than the gaffer tape version. Choose lighter-coloured gaffer tape so that you can draw on it with a marker pen. Run out of gaffer tape when have you go over it again to make it tighter, and end up using black instead of silver (so much for that bright idea).
- Mark the centre front and centre back with a marker pen or coloured tape. Mark the edges of the pattern pieces – I’m going to have 8 pieces in total, four at the front and four at the back. This is a good time to also mark out the shape you want the corset to have – before you cut it off. I forgot this bit. 😛
- Cut up the centre front. Use good scissors which will cut at the tip of the blades! Because it’s so tight, if you have to use the back end of the blades, you’ll end up a bit stabbed. Even with good scissors you’ll probably be a bit stabbed. Don’t forget that you’re naked under the t-shirt – you might want to do the cutting in a different room than the one all your friends are in (I nearly forgot this bit :P)
- Cut along the marked lines to get the pattern pieces. Mark each piece as you go so that you don’t forget which one is which.
- Trace the pattern pieces – you’ll have two of each, in my case centre front, outer front, outer back and centre back. Trace the matching pieces over each other – they won’t be the same shape, but should be fairly close. Once you’ve traced them, “split the difference” to get one shape for each pattern piece.
Step 2 – Tweaking The Pattern
- Put on Pride and Prejudice. The BBC version, obviously, because a) it’s the only one that really counts, and b) you’ll need something long. I got through three and a half episodes.
- Cut out the pieces you traced in step 1. Hold them up to yourself, mutter under your breath, despair. Remember another approach you saw on the Internet. Decide to give that a go, using the existing pieces as a starting point. Find the links in Evernote and feel momentarily smug.
- Take some measurements – bust, underbust, waist, hip, and the distances between them all at the front and the side.
- Get a large piece of paper – draw a vertical line for the centre front. Measure out perpendicular lines for bust, underbust, waist and hip.
- Figure out where the waistline is on your existing pieces, and lay them out, lining up their waist markings with the waist line on the paper. Trace around them.
- Measure to make sure that the pattern pieces add up to approximately your waist measurement minus something. This is the time for some more despair, until you figure out which wrong lines you’re measuring between. Coloured pencils may help. If things look about right, move on. Otherwise, repeat as necessary.
- Now you need to “true” the seams – that is, make sure that the length of each seam line matches the corresponding seam on the other pattern piece. They should be pretty close, unless, like me, you forgot to mark out the top and bottom edges of your corset before and need to do it now. Here comes more measuring, more holding up pattern pieces against yourself, and – of course – more despair. If you’ve already ordered your busk (the front fastening thingy), you need to figure out an outline that fits it. Draw small sketches, look up google images. Sketch the lines you think you want, then measuring along the edge of the pattern piece from the waistline out, match up the top and bottom lines.
- Once they all match, sit back and admire your work for a moment before organising for a friend to sanity check your pattern. Plan a trip to the public library to photocopy your handiwork so that you don’t have to start from scratch if disaster befalls your first copy. My pattern pieces will fit nicely on two A3 pages, and 60c is a small price to pay for not having to do this again from the start.
Up next: Making a mockup to check the pattern and practice the construction process.
We’ve now got all the important but boring bits out of the way in our Burning Man planning, and we’re starting to get into the sewing part. Because I don’t have any money to spare for costuming, I’m planning to sew as much as I can from my stash. This has a couple of bonuses – a) it will deplete my stash, and b) by limiting my options, I am less distracted by what could be. Some of the others are struggling to decide what they want to wear at BM, because they have so many options, so much possibility. My extremely limited budget is perversely freeing. I’m trying to keep that in mind as a benefit, especially when I have to cut things from my wishlist, or eat leftovers at planning meetings while everyone else eats pizza. 😛
So what am I planning to make? Here’s a bit of a list:
- A night-time jacket (deserts get pretty darn cold at night) – out of my old car’s sheepskin car seat covers.
- A kimono – from cloth napkins I got from REmida. I’m planning to dye the napkins with shibori techniques, then sew them together into a kimono.
- Turning an op-shop skirt that’s too big into a dress, by adding shoulder straps and some darts.
- Thai fishermen’s pants from some silver satin from the stash. The satin is graduated, so the pants are light at the top graduating to dark grey at the bottom. I might make a couple more pairs depending what I find in my stash.
- Some light tops made of voile, in various loose, floaty, wrappy styles – I’ll make these up as I go, but I’m aiming for simple but unusual construction – inspired by the awesome Pattern Magic books (now available in English!) that I spotted at the craft fair. I’ll probably also be dying these – I’m a little obsessed with shibori.
- A couple of miscellaneous skirts from the stash. Like the voile tops, there’re no detailed plans for these – it’ll depend what I’ve got and how big it is.
- A corset, made from some stripy upholstery fabric from REmida. This is a fairly ambitious one – lots of seams, lined, with boning and busk and lacing.
- And, of course, the electroluminescent wire night-time personal lighting garment, so I don’t get run over by an art car in the dark. I’m going to make a jelly-fishy skirt with hanging bits of EL wire and other fabric bits, with a wide waistband to hold the wiring, inverter and eight-AA powerpack(!).
- A crazy crocheted sun hat, inspired by Crocheting Adventures with Hyperbolic Planes.
So, yeah, I’m going to be kept busy for the next few months. I’m planning to document it all here. Step 1 is to work out a rough schedule and a budget. There are quite a few new things in there – the dying, EL wire, and practically all of the corset stuff, but most of the rest is very straightforward, so it balances out a bit. I’m pretty excited about the shibori. Should certainly come out of this with more sewing knowledge than I had going in!
A while ago I acquired a big box of buttons, thousands of assorted, miscellaneous, interesting buttons. It’s hard to get a good button collection – it takes decades to build one yourself, and this one just fell in my lap. I gleefully carried it off home, and spent the next few weeks carefully sorting it by colour:
The sorting was boring and addictive at the same time. It was hard to stop, even when I was bored out of my mind, because another button would catch my eye – just this shiny one, just another handful of those little orange buttons, was that a blue one? Even towards the end when all the bright colours were gone and I was left sorting brown, black, grey and more brown, it was hard to stop.
I’ve got a Plan for my lovely new buttons. I’m going to get an op-shop jacket and decorate it with buttons. My brown, black and white buttons are going to colour in an appliqued and embroidered tabby cat on the back, and the brighter colours will trim the hem, collar, sleeves and pockets. It will be awesome. It will probably also be quite impractical, but I don’t care. My buttons deserve to be celebrated.
With the warmer weather I’ve been thinking about my fabric stash and day-dreaming about what to do with some of my fabrics…
I’ve had this photo saved in my sewing inspiration folder for years. I love the fullness of that skirt, and the graceful waistline produced by that smocking-and-sash combo (not quite so keen on the neckline and sleeves). I’d done a tiny bit of smocking recently, and I found it much less tedious than I thought it would be. I’m now slightly obsessed with making a smocked summer dress. It will probably involve considerably less smocking than this dress does though… I’m thinking the ice-cream coloured stripes…
I also have a colourful ruler print which is just asking to be turned into a pleated skirt. And some flower-printed blue knit, which I don’t know exactly what to do with yet, except that it’ll drape wonderfully. And a Japanese rabbit print all ready to become a reversible waistcoat as soon as I stop being terrified of a garment with eight darts in it. And my black voile wrap dress for before and after fire performances, which has been all cut out and waiting since autumn. I suppose I should start there…
I love my fabric stash, but I really need to start turning some of it into garments or other goodies. Because the only other option is to stop adding to the stash, and I don’t think that’s going to happen. I haven’t had money to buy fabric this year, but I’ve been regularly bringing bits and pieces home from work instead. I have no powers of restraint when it comes to fabric.